Situated between the Cathedral and the Church of St. Francis of Assisi, the Palace of the Archbishops stands as a two-story structure. This palace is notable for its simple and austere architectural lines, representing the sole surviving example of civil architecture from Goa's golden age. Construction of the palace commenced in the early 16th century, concurrently with the Sé Cathedral, to which it is directly connected. In 1608, the French navigator Pyrard de la Valle noted that the building was completed, although the cathedral itself was still under construction at that time. An old photograph by Sousa & Paul depicts the palace from the river, showcasing various sections and two long columned verandas, which Pyrard de la Valle also mentioned as being present at the Palace of the Fortress. The design of the palace is characterized by its austere and visually unembellished nature. The two sections that form the main façade exhibit a complete lack of ornamentation, featuring straight-framed windows and smooth projections devoid of decorative details. The two porches that grant access to either end of the main structure suggest they were constructed in different eras; the main porch displays plain characteristics, while the second was either built or modified in the 18th century. This alteration likely coincided with the conversion of the large audience hall into a chapel, following the relocation of the archbishops' official residence to the Panelim Palace in the late 17th century.

   The edifice is stark and lacks any decorative features. It measures 230 feet in length and 108 feet in width. Dr. Gemelli, who visited the palace in 1695, attested to its grandeur and spaciousness, as well as the refinement of its rooms and the charm of its many galleries. The structure has withstood the passage of time relatively well and still exhibits some of its former elegance. Certain upper chambers are expansive and well-lit, while those on the ground level appear somber and uninspiring. In one of these upper halls, the archbishops, momentarily setting aside their piety and humility, were lavishly entertained akin to the Viceroys. Archbishop D. Fr. Aleixo de Menezes would daily host twelve impoverished individuals at his table, chosen by his servants from a large assembly eager for this generous repast.

   In one corridor, portraits of all previous Archbishops, many of whom had lived here, were displayed. Currently, these portraits are housed in the Hall of the Paço Patriarchal in Panjim, which serves as the current residence of the Archbishop Patriarch. The palace also featured a private chapel. It seems to predate the Cathedral, as the latter was far from finished during that period. Presently, all the rooms remain unfurnished and unoccupied. Whenever the Archbishop ventured into the city, he was accompanied by numerous mounted nobles and ecclesiastical figures in palanquins, with attendants and footmen in tow. The archbishops continued to inhabit this palace until 1695, when both the Archbishop and the Viceroy vacated their residences and relocated to Panelim (São Pedro) or Santa Inez due to a rampant epidemic in the city. Nevertheless, even in later years, archbishops would spend time here, particularly D. Fr. Manoel de Santa Catarina.

   Even prior to the completion of the Sé, François noted that Archbishop Dom Fr Aleixo de Menezes resided in this Palace. It is associated with both the Sé Catedral and the Convent of São Francisco de Assis. Notably, a section where the Canons currently reside is obscured from view, concealed by a parallel section of the Sé Catedral. A staircase connects the sacristy passage of the Sé Catedral to the Palace. Within the Palace, there exists a chapel featuring a splendid altar dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Carmo, with its gilt woodwork remarkably well-preserved. In addition to the internal entrance to the Palace, this chapel also had an external access point, which included a flight of 20 basalt steps leading to the first floor of the Palace. The archbishops traditionally occupied the first floor. The Sessions Hall of the Canons has served as the meeting place for members of the Goa Cathedral Chapter since the Palace's inception. Adjacent to this chapel is an internal door that provides access to the Convent of S. Francisco de Assis. It is documented that Archbishop D. Fr. Aleixo de Menezes regularly attended night prayer services at the convent, except on Sundays and other obligatory days when he would visit the Sé Catedral. The Palace contained numerous halls designated for various functions.

   As late as 1925, prelates would spend several days in this Palace during the festivities in Old Goa. During the 1952 Exposition, visiting prelates and some priests were accommodated in this Palace. Currently, the Vicar of Se and several canons occupy portions of the Palace. Aware of its historical significance and former grandeur, the Archdiocese of Goa undertook restoration efforts to preserve the Palace, allowing its former glory to be appreciated today, albeit in a diminished state, with the assistance of a Committee for the Conservation of the Archiepiscopal Palace. The Palace's walls are adorned with sgrafitto decorations featuring floral and other motifs up to a height of 1.5 meters, culminating in the design of the Augustinian emblem of double-headed eagles. This initiative was implemented by the then Archbishop Raul Gonsalves.

   Archbishop D. Fr. Aleixo de Menezes, an Augustinian, was responsible for the completion of this palace. The extensive carvings on the long and short beams located in each of the four corners of the halls and chapel serve to pull the walls together, compensating for the absence of supporting buttresses.

Frazer Andrade (Margão)

(Article from Katedralacho ULO, Special Edition December 2024)